Today was my third lesson (since my surgery) with my trainer, USDF Gold Medalist and successful grand prix competitor, Sandy Savage. I rode my seven year old Hanoverian mare Winnie (Weltmeyer/Wendekreis). Winnie’s been with Sandy a few months now and is ready to show first level plus she’s starting shoulder in. Winnie’s in the best shape I’ve ever seen her. I need to take some pictures and video before she comes home. Though, at the glacial rate I’m progressing, Winnie will be at the trainer’s for awhile yet. I have to be able to trailer her over to the arena, lunge her and ride her correctly on my own 3-4 times/week with weekly lessons with Sandy to keep me on track and progressing. Otherwise, Winnie will lose her rideability and she’ll regress in her training.
Today was another 45 minute lunge line lesson. I’ve done a lot of trail riding and some hunt seat training over the years, but I’m both out of shape and out of practice. Plus, I’ve never really had lessons with a true dressage expert. I feel like I’ve been getting the basics wrong for years. It’s incredibly humbling.
Dressage Lesson Notes
1. Side reins should be adjusted in length so that extended the full length the horses head is at or just behind the vertical. They should be attached well bellow the billet straps so that the horse can be warmed up in a long and low position. The inside siderein should be about 2 inches shorter than the outside rein (about 4-5 holes as the buckled section is a loop, not a straight line.)
2. My knee should be pressed flush with the knee roll, but the toe of my boot should not be visible when looking down at my knee. The tip of my booted toe should be in line with the front edge of my knee cap or just behind it . When viewed from the side my heel should be below my hips and at or just in front of the girth .
3. Posting or rising trot: when sitting your elbows and knees are bent (contracted.) When rising your elbows and knees are more extended . Your elbows should be slightly in front of your waist.
4. Rein length when posting on Winnie: the second leather tab of my reins should be between my fingers. If my hands are grasping the bucking strap, the third leather tab should be between my fingers. A soft, flexible hold only on the bucking stap as I still need to give with my hands for a following contact on the bit.
5. Cantering Position: lower legs should not swing, but my ankles should flex with each stride. Hips should move forward with each stride, but my seat should stay in the saddle. My hands should maintain a constant contact on the reins with the inside rein slightly shorter, as always. Don’t collapse my upper body, shoulders should be back!
6. When Winnie is “naughty” (tossing her head or a single buck when asked for an upward transition) send her forward! In fact, always be thinking FORWARD with Winnie, even in a downward transition. Also, bending her o the inside can help keep her focused. Make sure only to bend her head so hat her eye is just visible, Otherwise she is probably over bent to the inside. Remember to keep a nice firm contact on the outside rein too. Since she also tends to toss her head when resisting, so keep good contact with the bit.
7. Dressage Whip: Should be held firmly by the handle with its length resting on the thigh above the knee.
